The roots of fusion cuisine are probably ancient since humans have been exchanging culinary heritage for centuries, but the concept became popularized in the s. Several French chefs began to offer foods that combined traditional French food with Asian cuisine, especially foods from Vietnam and China. The concept quickly spread to other major European cities, along with the American coasts. As the hold of imperialism started to fall in the 19th and 20th centuries, a unique idea of nationalism began to take its place.
Upon first arriving in Macau during a recent trip, after the hour-long ferry ride from the Hong Kong airport, I wasn't hungry for much of anything. My stomach was still wonky from the hour flight from New York, and the choppy boat ride hadn't helped. But I was already making a mental checklist of everything I should eat during my short stay. Until recently, Macau mostly attracted business travelers and gamblers—the two often being one and the same.
The eastern side of the peninsula looks like the Vegas Strip, and in fact is home to many of the same hotels you find in Sin City. The average duration of a visit is only 36 hours. In the last few years, the local tourism board has been pushing Macau as a foodie destination.
Being from Montreal, which has a sort of fusion cuisine of its own, and living now in another city where cultures are known to fraternize on the plate, I was more interested in the food found on the streets and in family-owned restaurants than that touted in the little red Michelin guidebook.
This kind of arbitrary adaptation of a recipe flourishes when people have only slight acquaintance with a different cuisine, so with the passing of time, the recipes that appear in cookbooks and newspapers have become more and more authentic. Then came World War II, which took many Americans abroad, and then the biggest change of all: affordable jet travel and the subsequent growth of foodyism. Foodies understandably disdain the halfway measures of the older recipes. For one thing, they want more distinctive flavors; they tend to be bored by the sweet and mild flavors, the avoidance of loud aromatics and the soft textures that characterize traditional American taste.
But to look down on these old dishes just because they are inauthentic is a little peculiar. If there were, the jails would be overflowing even in Italy and Mexico, because all cooks adapt dishes to their own taste.
We may even find we prefer a nice big slice of enchilada pie. An early recipe for macaroni served with a sauce, rather than baked. Scald milk in double boiler. In bowl rub flour and butter together and whisk into milk. Stir over heat until thickened. Stir in salt, pepper to taste, cayenne, cream, cheese and mustard. This can also be done in saucepan, if watched carefully. Cook macaroni according to package directions. Drain well and arrange in serving dish.
Stir in sauce and serve. Makes 2 servings. Rather suspiciously, this dish was also known as fried chicken a la Mexicaine. Serve with peas and mashed potatoes. Dip chicken pieces in Tomato Batter. In large skillet melt butter with oil. Add chicken pieces 2 at time and fry until brown more than 2 pieces at time can be fried as long as pieces are not crowded. Serve, passing hot Tomato Sauce. Makes 4 servings. In bowl beat flour and milk into smooth batter. Mix in tomatoes, onion, parsley, salt and pepper.
Makes enough to coat 1 chicken. Tomato Sauce 1 ounce can tomatoes 1 slice onion 2 cloves Dash black pepper Dash salt 2 tablespoons butter 1 tablespoon flour.
In saucepan cook tomatoes with onion, cloves, pepper and salt 20 minutes. Remove onion and cloves. Push tomato through strainer with back of wooden spoon, or puree in food processor. Melt butter in saucepan. Stir in flour and continue stirring until golden and frothing. We generally test out new recipes fusion or not on ourselves before we serve them to guests. A few people have volunteered to be on our "tasting panels" but they are forewarned as to the possibility of a recipe perhaps not being the best.
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