This point should be one of the biggest factors in your decision. Do you notice cracks or buckling in your foundation? Have the structural supports in your walls and ceilings stayed strong and firm? However, a home only needs a complete rebuild if it has extensive damage. If you only see problems in one room and you like the house otherwise , then you should only renovate. However, before you take this step, make sure you know the structure placement restrictions for your area.
As such, they tend to be priced below the prevailing average for their street or neighborhood and often sit unsold longer than others, unless their sellers are actively marketing them as prospective tear downs.
Absolutely not. In fact, in some communities, local government rules encourage substantial renovations over demolitions by making the permitting easier and faster. You might, for instance, be able to retain the existing foundation or add to it. You might be able to retain a portion of an existing wall or incorporate part of the old structure into your new design, and thereby sidestep local restrictions on total demolitions.
In historic districts where tear downs are banned, you might also be able to qualify for tax credits by undertaking substantial rehabilitation.
Usually the key factors are the current condition of the house and what you want out of a new house. Older homes can have severe problems that make them financially unfeasible to repair, such as heavy infestations of mold or pests, extensive water damage undermining the foundation or footings or roof damage from wind or rot. They often have interior layouts difficult to rearrange for modern uses and outmoded components that all need to be replaced — at significant cost — whether you tear the house down or try to renovate it.
Ask yourself: Do I want a home that is energy efficient, from windows to doors to kitchen appliances? Wired for all the sophisticated electronics we use today? With room layouts that make sense for the style of living you want for you and your family? To locate potential builders for your project, you can search NewHomeSource.
You can count on it! Many older, desirable close-in communities have land-use rules and codes intended to protect the existing character of the town or neighborhood. Others have historic preservation districts banning most tear downs or requiring replacement structures to strictly adhere to the predominant architectural size and standards of the neighborhood. Financing is definitely more complicated when you do a tear down. Then the demolition expenses. And finally, you need long-term mortgage financing.
You might, for example, use the proceeds of the sale of your previous house and make the purchase of the tear down property contingent upon that sale. You may be able to recoup most of the demolition expenses by recycling the contents and structural elements of the tear down itself, whether through sale or by tax-deductible donations. The local professionals you engage to assist you — the real estate agent and the design-build firm — should be able to guide you on financing.
Interest rates and other terms can vary widely — these are loan types that banks retain in their own portfolios and consider higher risk than ordinary mortgages, so shopping is essential. Most municipalities have rules requiring you — or more likely your builder — to obtain a demolition permit before doing anything.
Those goals are easier to achieve with a new build, but are usually manageable with a retrofit if it's designed properly. See our page on buying and selling used materials to find a local market. Sign Up to Comment.
When I drive by houses doing exactly what you are planning, sometimes I cringe at what I see happening. We've had so many questions about the best way of insulating exterior walls from the outside we've written a guide page here. Some rigid board insulations are a vapour barrier, some are not. Some are air barriers, some are not.
XPS foam insulation at about 1 inch thick will act as a vapour barrier, EPS foam insulation will start to act as one at about 2 inches, and polyisocyanurate the one with the foil on both sides is a vapour barrier at any thickness foil is waterproof.
You can read all about rigid insulation panels here. At that point what you are doing is building a R. E wall, read more about that here. What that means, is if you have 3. We would suggest EPS because of the plastic based foams this is the least problematic environmentally. Here's a link to a product that is simple solution to achieve this, it is an EPS foam panel with a metal rail embedded in the center for exterior insulation that is used to attach it to the wall and that the strapping is then attached to for installing siding.
You would just screw it to the wall, then screw strapping to the same panel for installing future siding, which sure makes the job quicker. You can then either fill the new cavity with dense packed cellulose insulation , or even consider the latest kid on the block, natural based hemp insulation products. For that reason if you wanted a simple "one size fits all" exterior insulation skin option but don't want or aren't able to add 7" to the exterior of your home, we would recommend Rockwool rigid board insulation known as Roxul prior to re-branding.
You can add as much rock wool as you want, or as little as you have to if there are other considerations like property line setbacks or such, because it won't alter the basic function of the existing wall. We have a page on how to install siding here where that is all explained in detail. The answer is actually pretty easy but not one you probably want to hear, and I know I risk getting lots of different opinions and comments - but in our opinion you should probably remove the poly vapor barrier.
Any moisture that may have leaked in through unsealed windows would be a drop in the bucket compared to the amount of water in the concrete foundation , which takes years to fully dry.
And even that can only happen if it is protected with a membrane to prevent it from absorbing more moisture from the ground. Either there is no exterior moisture protection separating concrete from the ground and it will just stay wet forever, or it is protected from absorbing moisture on the outside, but still the only way the moisture in the concrete can dry is to the interior, which is currently being stopped by your poly vapor barrier.
So the short story is, despite that fact that so many builders keep putting vapour barriers on the interiors of basement walls, it is the worst thing you can do down there since the main source of moisture is not interior humidity in the air, it's the wet ground and or the concrete itself.
Here is an article that will better help you understand why the walls are wet and how renovations should be carried out - ]. Having to remove all the poly is probably not the news you were hoping for but you are at least fortunate in the sense that there is no drywall on at this point. Most people only find out their basements are rotting many years after they've been finished. We can help you with whatever steps you take moving forward, so feel free to send along some pics if you can, or at least let us know the following - Are the wood studs right against the foundation or is there any rigid insulation panels or membrane separating it from the concrete?
Is there any damp proofing spray on the exterior wall, and or a dimple membrane? Do you get condensation on windows in the home? All are factors to consider for health and home durability. While it would be much better if your slab was insulated underneath, I have a hard time recommending you do that now, so that would have to be your call based on budget, and comfort. If so, it would be best to remove it if you still can since the concrete will continue to absorb moisture and in turn the wood will continue to absorb moisture as well and begin to rot.
I get the idea of the Blueskin to protect the wood from wetting, but it may have the effect of preventing it from drying. As for sealing the floor, I would recommend a silicate densifier.
It would make for a very durable and completely non-toxic floor, you can read more about it here. It can be tough to offer advice without a visual, so feel free to load some photos and we can trouble shoot this and come up with a solution. Fitting extra insulation to an older home when renovating can be a great idea, but when insulating exterior walls from the outside take care to do it right.
Basement mold and mildew can easily be avoided with better designed walls. Common building practices trap moisture in wall assemblies preventing them from dryi…. Why are basements moldy? Because we build walls so they can't dry. Simple changes in wall design will result in mould-free durable basements. Basements don't h…. A slab-on-grade home or building is more affordable, more comfortable and more Eco-friendly. Removing radon gas from existing basements and crawlspaces can be very effective, here are different options for different situations.
Radon Gas in Crawlspaces…. One of the first decisions when building a home is what type of foundations to sit your home on - cold-climates, termites, problem expansive clay soils, insula…. Creative financing options can be used for demolition and also rebuild of the new home. Then, this loan is converted to a long-term mortgage after the construction is finished.
Not only do you need to look at the overall cost of the demolition, but it is also essential to consider where you want to prioritize your budget. Run the numbers to see how much a full demolition will cost. Make sure that your demo contractor is providing all outlying expenses such as inspection of the home, demolition permits, and anything else that might be needed for the property.
Sometimes, there are ways to cut corners on the demolition if you want to save more of the budget for rebuilding. For example, leaving the foundation in place so you can rebuild on the existing foundation could save you thousands of dollars. That money can be spent on personalized features inside the new home instead. An experienced general contractor can help you evaluate all the options, making it easy to choose the specific services that match your budget and desires. Are you ready to get started with your home demolition project?
Then it is essential that you choose the right team to assist. Our team at Mikula Contracting, Inc. We maintain the highest levels of integrity in all services offered to our clients. We are proud to have over 70 years of industry experience and can assist with both commercial and residential demolition. These services encompass more than basic demolition — we can also assist with drainage services, excavation, and more. If you need help with home demolition in NJ, then contact us to learn more about your options.
At Mikula Contracting, Inc, we promise efficiency and quality for every project. Call today to schedule a consultation with a demolition expert. As we get closer to officially starting spring, people are beginning to plan their home improvement projects for the coming season.
Who Needs […]. Posted May 26, by Dennis Mikula. Here are a few factors that should always be considered: 1. Location of the Home When land is scarce and you have specific requirements for your new home, then sometimes it makes sense to buy a property that comes with a home. Remodel or Full Demolition? Historic Value of the Home If the house is located in a historic district, then there might be limitations about what can be done in the home.
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